See what goes on inside TUDOR’s brand-new manufacture in Le Locle.
The TUDOR Manufacture is the first industrial facility fully dedicated to the TUDOR watchmaking company in its nearly 100-year history. Located in the Le Locle, Switzerland, this is where every single TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards, with some models in the range Master Chronometer-certified here, too.
This new state of the art facility, bringing together the traditional know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management technologies and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the manufacture spans over five levels totaling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
The Spirit of Black Bay
TUDOR introduces the new Black Bay with a burgundy bezel featuring both technical and aesthetic developments. This model features evolved design elements, a “T-fit” clasp, and is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which powers the Black Bay, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. It offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer mention on its bridges, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. This system together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, means the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5) tested on a fully assembled watch.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has been certified for 70 hours by METAS, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.
CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR METAS CERTIFICATION
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below:
- Swiss Made
- Certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
- Precision at two temperatures, in six different positions and at two different levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
- Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
- Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) in accordance with ISO standard
- 70-hour power reserve
The original Black Bay first launched in 2012 with a burgundy bezel and it was given the Manufacture Calibre treatment in 2016. Now it returns in a third evolution foreshadowing the aesthetic and technical future of the line. Named Black Bay, this emblematic design in the TUDOR collection is another example of TUDOR’s expert command of one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields.
The Black Bay comes fitted with either an entirely satin-brushed three-link steel bracelet or a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished steel bracelet, both complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
A black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay. The strap comes in three sizes complete with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, and for the perfect fit, it is able to be cut down to the exact size of the wearer’s wrist. On the inside it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for the Black Bay.
